90. Most Beautiful

The Supreme Court may have the most striking exterior in DC with its simple lines and vertical majesty, but the most beautiful interior building in all of Washington is right next door, the Library of Congress. Once you pass the outside grey stone lower foundation you enter into a classical world of Italian Renaissance. The color, splendor and detail is simply a feast for the eyes. You are stunned because there is nothing like it. Well, almost. In the 90’s President Bill Clinton hosted Boris Yeltsin, the first President of Russia post Soviet Union. Clinton told him I’m going to show you the most beautiful building in DC and brought him here. Yeltsin smiled, yes indeed, we have one of these too, just like it in Russia!

When the Library of Congress was dedicated in 1897 it was a one-of-a-kind in America where we claimed our place in the pageantry of Western Art and Culture. But into the 1920’s the same classical grandeur was replicated in other Capitals to make the same statement: We have arrived. We share in that same legacy.

You need to go back a hundred years though to find the purpose of the Library of Congress . In 1800 Washington became the new seat of the United States government with a library dedicated for the use of the U.S. Congress. But in 1814 the invading British burned it down, just like the White House and parts of the Capitol. Former President Thomas Jefferson then offered his personal library as a replacement, over 6,000 books on all subjects creating the foundation for a diverse collection of knowledge.

So today it’s named the Library of Congress in the Jefferson Building. You enter through the Great Hall. On center floor is a large brass inlay of a compass rose surrounded by the zodiac. As your eyes wander upwards past the vaults and staircases there are reminders of world famous writers and thinkers, representations of occupations both manual and industrial. The Virtues are personified. Sports are represented. Where earth ends and heaven begins is indiscernible. In fact the whole purpose of Beauty is to bring the divine into our lives. The Great Hall honors not only the ideal but individual humans who have over history channeled wisdom and art. It’s simply stunning, to say the least.

There is a mezzanine on the second floor which continues this flowering of the human spirit. Rather than burden you with textual detail, I’ll let you wander the halls yourself through the lens of my photos.

Still higher up is a smaller staircase leading past a mural of Minerva, the Roman goddess of Wisdom and guardian of the Arts and Trade. Left and right, doors open upon an even smaller viewing balcony that overlooks the Main Reading Room of the Library.

My view extends past Moses with the tablets. Other statues of leading figures from Western civilization stand on ledges looking down on this circular well of study. Besides Moses are St. Paul, Columbus, Herodotus, Beethoven Michelangelo, Bacon, Plato, Homer, Shakespeare, Solon, and Newton.

High above is a cupola with the circular mural of what was then considered the twelve most consequential countries in Western culture. To actually enter into the Reading Room below you need an official Library of Congress library card. I had one years ago, but even they expire. I’m more than comfortable viewing from the balcony. This is not a research trip, at least not with Jefferson’s books.

Also nearby off the Mezzanine is the Treasures Gallery displaying historical artifacts such as the content of Abraham Lincoln’s pocket when he was assassinated at Ford’s Theater. A silk lined wallet, Confederate five dollar bill and pen knife among other things. Another exhibition room had photography of which this 19th century bicyclist caught my eye. Better him than me. 

But the jewel of the Library is an original Gutenberg Bible printed not on paper but vellum or animal skin. Printing with moveable type expanded the availability of books into the hands of people obviously leading to a religious revolution by Luther up to today’s digital revolution which goes beyond vellum and paper to put electronic screens into everyone’s palm. 

As I descended back down the staircase to the Great Hall I was surprised by a random act of beauty. Someone had the fantastic idea of taking their wedding photos here. A couple stood on the center floor rose compass surrounded by the most magnificent display of beauty and art while their photographer directed them from the upstairs mezzanine. What a way to remember their wedding. Pure genius. It put a punctuation on my experience here as well.

The Library of Congress is a Temple of Beauty, truly a National Treasure. Neighbors on the same block, side by side with the Supreme Court you can experience here a basic duality of human nature. The Court’s stark whiteness and black robes pursue Truth through Reason and Logic. The Library with it’s explosion of color feels that same Truth through Art and Wisdom. 

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