99. the Book of Kells

If the harp is the national symbol of Ireland, then the Book of Kells is Ireland's greatest treasure. But unlike the harp logo on Guinness, you won't see this book on any beer. For the last 1200 years it had been hunted down by Vikings, smuggled by monks from the Isle of Iona to Ireland, lost, then found, and now under the guardianship of Trinity College.

It is said in Islam that the Koran is Mohammed's "miracle" gift to mankind channeled directly from the archangel Gabriel. But unlike the Koran, this Book of Kells is illuminated with the most detailed and colorful images of humans, animals and plants as well as the spiritual hierarchies. Illustrated and written on vellum, calf skin pages, it is like a stained glass window of the four gospels. I spent one afternoon visiting the Book of Kells exhibit and then entering their newest digital pavilion for the Book of Kells Experience.

I was very fortunate to stay for three days here at Trinity College in the heart of Dublin. In Summer they rent out the student rooms to guests. You cannot find a more peaceful oasis to stay. The grey stone structure has an inner quad with mature trees and lawn at one end to relax or picnic, but the entrance both outer and inner is wild grass three feet high.

This is not a manicured University of California campus. One older tree is stunted in growth because its roots are blocked by the previous foundation of an Augustinian monastery.

To the left of its central bell tower is a statue of a previous Provost, George Salomon, who swore that women would never be admitted, over his dead body. Ironically when he died in 1904, a woman was taking her entrance exams on campus, and celebrated by figuratively stepping over his body. Now that’s a wake that did become woke. Women broke the admittance barrier long before the Vatican. Queen Elizabeth had founded Trinity in 1592 as a divinity school to educate protestant ministers. Catholics weren’t freely allowed in until the 1970’s. Trinity is a microcosm of Ireland’s turbulent past and its quest for freedom.

As part of the Book of Kells exhibit at Trinity College you also tour their Old Library, the impressive Long Room housing over 200,000 of its oldest books. Two stories of bookshelves are flanked on both sides with the bust figures of Western civilization's greatest authors and thinkers. Since the building is over 300 years old, the books are now being carefully cleaned and moved to a safer archive. Currently a temporary exhibit of Gaia, a globe of the earth is suspended in the air at the far end. Plato, Aristotle, and Shakespeare are some of the first busts you see as you walk past the numerous alcoves of stored books.

One benefit of living on campus was access to The Buttery, a breakfast buffet for students and staff. Although it was convenient for an early front load of protein before the day's activities, I quickly learned that a typical full Irish breakfast may fill an empty stomach, but it doesn't satisfy the senses. Scrambled eggs and hash browns I liked, but the two boiled tomatoes, beans, black bread (a pork blood sausage), and white bread (a pork fat sausage) got old quickly, very quickly. Soup and lunch were a lot more . . . tasty.

And of course a playful and fun looking coffee truck sat near the bell tower just to remind one that the Irish still have good taste after all.